For the past couple of weeks we have been on the run! Until a couple of days ago pretty much every day has been a long travel day. Some days we have traveled as many as eleven hours! But now we are slowing down again, taking some time to relax and enjoy the scenery and the culture. We are finally “cruising” again.
We left our anchorage early on the 24th and traveled to Port Royal Landing Marina near Beaufort, SC. It was a terrible day as far as weather was concerned. When we arrived at the marina it was raining sideways and the wind was blowing so hard that it blew a huge sign off its post, breaking it into three sharp pieces, and nearly impaling John as we tied up. We had to leave the stabilizers on at the dock because the waves were bouncing us around so much. Finally the wind subsided and we had a comfortable night at least.
Enjoying what seemed to be an airshow just for us along the ICW

The beautiful scenery along the waterway.
The next day we traveled along the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) to the lovely Church Street anchorage in South Carolina. As always, the ICW continues to be lovely and fascinating. On this day, we were entertained by some fighter jets, the F22 Raptors. They flew in large circles overhead as we traveled the otherwise uninhabited and gorgeous river of the waterway. We continued our long days on the 26th to another anchorage where we were the only boaters to be found, the Awendaw anchorage in South Carolina.
AfterMath docked next to the restaurant at Wacca Wache Marina
This gentleman was a great entertainer.
Tiffany was a lot of fun!
Our view from AfterMath of the restaurant.
Beginning to feel as though we lost the fun of experiencing new places due to our long, ten and eleven hour trips, we happened upon Wacca Wache Marina in Murrells Inlet, South Carolina. There we found again the peace and relaxation that cruising is meant to bring. A tiny marina with a cute little restaurant right on the ICW, we were helped to dock by a friendly staff in a cedar lined inlet that was just what we needed. We went to the restaurant, right next to AfterMath, and were told we would have a 20 minute wait, but that we could go sit on our boat and they would call us when they were ready. A lovely lady named Tiffany, who was also a teacher in her past, served our dinner and we had so much fun bantering with her and enjoying the life we love so much.
Every day brings new and changing scenery. It’s what makes the waterway so much fun.

The homes along the ICW vary from tiny to huge.


The only pirates we have seen in the past two years have been aboard these friendly looking ships.
It was Memorial Day weekend and everyone was out to enjoy the water.

Recharged after our night at Wacca Wache Marina, we excitedly traveled through the busy waterway and on to Southport, North Carolina. Besides changing states, we especially looked forward to meeting up with our good friends, Vera and Rolf Redin and Jan Kirk. We had seen them all a couple of weeks earlier for Don Kirk’s memorial service in Bethel, CT, but now it was time to see them at their home. Vera and Rolf had us all at their house for a wonderful cookout for Monday, which was Memorial Day, and the next day the five of us gathered on AfterMath for some fresh caught shrimp before heading out to a fun dinner together at Fishy Fishy, a restaurant in Southport. As always, seeing friends along the way is a highlight of this vagabond life we lead, and seeing our friends of more than 40 years along the way was the best imaginable.
A tiny island with a flag, a fake palm tree, and a parking meter. The crazy ICW!
The retired tanks turned target practice in Camp Lejeune

We had some work done on AfterMath in Southport, as we had a leaking impeller housing (don’t worry, I don’t know what that means either), and then set out for one of John’s favorite anchorages, which is near Camp Lejeune. In the past there have been a lot of helicopters flying around that anchorage, but we really didn’t see too many the day we arrived. There are, however, some pretty interesting tanks and military vehicles on the grounds of the camp, and we passed them the following day. I commented to John that they looked pretty disintegrated, but he thought they might have been used for target practice. With a further look at the pictures, I found he was right. They are so full of bullet holes that they look like lace!
Our beautiful, calm anchorage for the night.
On June 3rd we once again arrived at an anchorage where we were the only boat around. It was a long and winding path to get in, but it was absolutely gorgeous. In the morning, the water looked like glass, with perfect reflections and we hated to pull anchor. Outside the anchorage there stood a sailboat in the mist. From our perspective it seemed that the boat was floating in air. There was no distinction between water and sky. I wished I had stopped and asked him for his email address so I could have sent him his picture; sail boaters love pictures of their boats.

The next day brought us down the Pungo – Alligator River Canal, a wonderful stretch of the waterway through beautiful forests and flatlands. In the evening we arrived at the Alligator River Marina, a marina we had stopped at several years ago with Jeff’s boat. We spent the night there before crossing the Albemarle Sound. Years ago this sound was a big deal to me. I would put a patch on and hope for calm seas and light winds. This time we both said to each other, “It’s not the Mona Passage!” It’s funny how your perspective changes.
Coinjock Marina
Monday night was spent in Coinjock, NC. Coinjock is a eclectic place that is loved by cruisers. It is an extremely helpful marina, very dog friendly, and has a cute little store and a nice restaurant that is famous for its prime rib. We decided to try out the roast beef that night and we were not disappointed. You can get the 16 ounce or 32 ounce cuts; we both chose the 16-ounce and brought leftovers home for the next day. The beef was great, but equally wonderful were the homemade potato chips and ranch dressing they serve while you are waiting for your dinner. I probably could have made a meal out of them!

Enjoying the park at the Atlantic Yacht Basin

You never know what you may find along the way. Here, right next to our boat at the park, we found a Hump Day Food Truck Day in Chesapeake, VA.

The fireboat bringing Chessie, a mascot bear, to the food fest.

On June 6th, we made our way to our first stop in Virginia. We arrived at the Atlantic Yacht Basin Marina where we bought diesel fuel to last us through our summer cruise on the Chesapeake Bay. Interestingly, there we found a couple of brokers who knew our boat before it was AfterMath. They had listed it for the previous owners and recognized it immediately. It was fun to talk to the men and tell them about our great adventures so far. We stayed at the marina that night, but the next day, as the weather looked dreary, we moved across the river to the free dock at the lovely park there. I was so happy to get off and check out the park and then to take Kirby for a nice long walk in the woods yesterday afternoon. I kept thinking how the trees have changed throughout our voyage. We have been from Connecticut, to Canada, to Grenada and now up the ICW. We’ve moved from deciduous trees to pine forests, to palm trees and back to pine trees. Anyway, it was a lovely to walk in the perfectly maintained park along the water where magnolia trees grew and bloomed wildly and fragrantly, and the pine trees grew tall and green.
This is a sign at the one lock we needed to pass through after leaving Coinjock. It raises you only four feet but it was the slowest lock we have ever experienced. We were sure that the 60 foot ones in Canada took far less time.
Norfolk, VA is always a fascinating place to travel through. Boats of every kind are there. This year we went through as they were preparing for a Harbor Fest.




Of course, we always love the many kinds of aircraft we see as well.
The Coast Guard Eagle – a treat to see.
We found ourselves anchored right in the middle of a sailboat race!
Today, June 8th, we continued up the ICW through Norfolk, VA. Norfolk is always fun and interesting to see. Lots of ships, busy air traffic, and the city make the trip fun. It is so amazing how much of America you can see just on this waterway along the coast. The scenery is always changing. Tonight we find ourselves in an anchorage that is frequented by helicopters, airplanes, and a sailboat race. Today we passed by Navy ships and tall ships as they prepare for the Norfolk Harbor Fest. Tomorrow we enter the Chesapeake Bay, our goal for the summer. We left Grenada on October 30th and have traveled 2974 nautical miles, or 3422 statute miles, since that time. Our days are filled with beauty and variety, and that is wonderful. We do miss some important things, like our granddaughter’s very first dance recital, which is breaking my heart (break a leg, Madison, we love you so much). Life is a trade off though and, all in all, I will never regret taking this trip of a lifetime.
Here is where we are today:

Rush and Walt were happy helping to plant flowers in the yard.

Ford’s only job was to look cute for a quick photo shoot.
Don Kirk is sorely missed by this group of good friends. We have been through everything together from the time we all met and were having babies till now, when we are all grandparents. It is a group of friends like none other.
Stacey and her horse, Lucy
Just another horse at the barn – but who could resist this face?
Jeff and Stephen. Two great guys!
From the top of Mohawk Mountain in Connecticut
Brothers! When Rush gets stuck, Walt gives a helping push with his four-wheeler.
Yes, that’s John on Walt’s four-wheeler. Some things you are just never too old for.
Serious fence building taking place here.
After a day of hard work a hot dog roast and s’mores cooked outside on the fireplace are the perfect dinner.
It was a rainy day, but Jeff and Sarah found the perfect place for us to do a photo shoot – the Naval Academy, right near their house.
John thought of asking Jeff to get our picture with the grandchildren. I am so happy to have this.
It is oh, so hard to not be silly!
Madison just couldn’t resist getting right into the tide-pool, dress and all.
Carter makes everyone smile wherever he goes.
Michaela is getting so grown up these days. It’s hard to believe she will be 10 this summer!
The perfect way to spend Mother’s Day. With family and on the beach.
And finally, we had our picture taken with Kelly’s kids after dinner on AfterMath.
It was great fun watching this helicopter practicing in Brunswick, GA
Walt
Rush
Ford came home wearing the outfit John picked out for Jeff’s homecoming 35 years ago.

Walt loves his 4-Wheeler
Silliness with brothers!
AfterMath at the dock with a big sister LRC.
Traveling along the ICW



The beach at Marineland
The bridge near Marineland is beautifully decorated.


It was interesting to see some of the damage left by Hurricane Matthew, the hurricane that we were happy to dodge back in Grenada over the summer.

The lighthouse at St. Augustine
St. Augustine is very picturesque from the water.




Several years ago, while sailing the ICW with Jeff, we saw just grass from the low vantage point of the cockpit of Prerequisite. Here, I went to the fly bridge to see what we had missed.
There is always something different to see along the way.
Getting close to Jacksonville.

One of the most fun sunsets I have ever photographed.

Our view from the dock at the Metro Marina.
Heading to Lambs Yacht Center



At the butterfly festival





Michaela on Peaches.
Kelly’s turn
Just a couple of the amazing homes along the waterway in Ft. Lauderdale
So much boat traffic!
Iguanas thrive in south Florida
If you look really closely you will see a real iguana on the head of this alligator statue.
On the water taxi.
The home of Wendy, from the restaurant, Wendy’s
The beach, which was just one block from the marina, is so different from those we have been visiting lately.

Taking time to enjoy happy hour at Coconuts.
This boat was docked right across from us in the marina. It used to belong to Johnny Depp but is currently owned by JK Rowlings.
Leaving Ft. Lauderdale on AfterMath
This statue is in honor of the owner’s father, a race car driver who died in a crash

Our friend, Scott, is writing an article about sailors who have given up sailing and bought a trawler, and we were interviewed by him. He asked for a picture of us so I set up the tripod and here we are.
The inlet to the West Caicos anchorage.
Sun sets over the Turks and Caicos.



Sunset at Mayaguana
A painted sky sunset at Acklin Island.
Sunrise at Acklin Island
This rock is known as “Elephant Rock” and is at the entrance of Little Harbor, Acklin Island
Here they come!




One of many caves on the shore of Big Major Spot


Thanks to Allen Roberts, who sent us this great picture taken from his drone at Rose Island
Another early morning departure with our new friends.
It’s always nice to buddy boat with others, and these people were great company.
The Atlantis, Paradise Island, Nassau
Chub Cay for a short stopover.
Another drone picture by Allen Roberts
While Allen photographed AfterMath by drone, I photographed his drone.
Ft. Lauderdale! It just seemed a world away from the Bahamas.
This sandbar is actually a privately owned island. The owner pays $2400 a year in taxes.

The infinity pool at Puerto Bahia
Funny about that life jacket. The guide said it was a law that we wore them on the tour boat. However, the boat’s engine broke down and they sent out a new boat for us. We were told to leave our life jackets behind and, when on the the new boat, we noticed we were not required to have life jackets. When we asked about the difference we were told that the captain of the new boat forgot to bring them. We traveled for the rest of the day with no life preservers while the broken boat returned to shore with plenty. That’s life in the DR.
Some scenes from Los Haities National Park in Samana, DR
A male Magnificent Frigate bird during breeding season.
The female Magnificent Frigates.

Our guide, Carlos




One of the caves in the park

Cave drawings.
The strangest pina colada ever. It had a whole pineapple crushed into the drink.
That’s a lot of chairs at the beach on Cayo Laventado.
John demonstrating how to relax a little.
Leaving Cayo Laventado.
Along the Caicos Bank
At the fish fry.
Note that this gentleman is playing a rusty saw.
The tidal lake across the street from the marina. There is a gentleman out here on the right fishing for bonefish.
The view from Bob’s Bar.
Some views from the hill next to the marina.






A few shots taken from the path around the marina.






The beaches at Cap Cana


A pool at the beach
The lovely scenery and pools around Cap Cana

At the marina. AfterMath is over on the right.
Most of the bikes around the marina are not locked, but this one is locked to an anchor. Pretty creative for a marina bike!

John and Kirby walking through the section known as the Fishing Village at Cap Cana


At the beach in Bayahibe.


The little restaurant we found on the beach before most of the crowd showed up.
Our view from our lunch table.


Old San Juan. One of the best parts of Puerto Rico is the people’s love of color. Everywhere you look, there is color!
Castillo San Juan Cristobal, the fort that surrounds Old San Juan.



Children flying their kites. It is quite the sight to see!




The free tourist trolley through Old San Juan. And this gentleman was so happy to be in my picture!



Read below why this guard was so special to us!
The full moon illuminated the mast on the sailboat opposite us that night.
Sunset at the Patillas anchorage
Moving along the southern coast of Puerto Rico. I love the windmills!
The lighthouse near Cabo Rojo
The houses aren’t big, but, oh, what a view!
Along the streets in the fishing village at Puerto Real. Again, color rules!

This varnished house is just amazing! 



The yellow building serves as a hardware store, lunch counter, and fish market.



The lighthouse at Rincon
From the park at the lighthouse
Which way are they supposed to be going?
Catch a wave
And….
You’re sitting on top of the world.
The Steps at Step Beach
Looking out at the dreaded Mona Passage
At the square in Rincon
The cemetery was full of color and beautiful flowers.
As always, I like people the best.
The Arecibo Observatory

The hole in the bottom is so that people can access the dish. That opening is 3 by 18 feet.
A shoe used for workers to walk on the panels of the dish.
This is a rock from Mars, broken from an asteroid.
John, learning to spin like an ice skater at the observatory.
Entering the BVI we passed Richard Branson’s home where the Obamas were relaxing after the Inauguration.
Back in the BVI
Traveling to Soper’s Hole. I love the BVI!
Chris and Sam’s ferry arrived!

Chris made it to Foxy’s
This crazy sign is new even since we were here last summer.
Strolling the main street on Jost Van Dyke
For $5 a person Rena took us to the Soggy Dollar.
This bar is called the Soggy Dollar because there is no where to take a dinghy to shore so, if you come by boat, you swim in and therefore have soggy dollars.


Going back to Great Harbour by taxi we spotted AfterMath and asked to stop and take a picture.
Sam got the little hammock.
John got the big one!
At the barbeque.
Sam on the path up to the top of the hill at Marina Cay.
That’s a potato chip tower. A tower of chips covered with blue cheese dressing, lettuce and tomatoes. Amazing!
An ingenious way to hand us a dessert menu. Of course we all had to look through it!
And another day ends on Marina Cay.
Dramatic clouds started our morning.
The first view of The Baths after swimming to shore.





The trail going up to the restaurant.
AfterMath at a mooring near The Baths
Snorkeling near our boat at Norman Island
That colorful fish is John Daigle!




Do you see the cute puffer fish above?



The next stop, still on Monday, was Norman Island. This island is uninhabited, peaceful and beautiful, and really only available to boaters. There was a beautiful reef only a short distance from AfterMath so we all donned snorkeling gear and hopped off the swim platform. I was so happy to see such colorful coral of so many different types there. Much of the Caribbean coral has been dying off, but here we saw countless varieties in a rainbow of colors. Of course the fish were the best part of the show. The underwater world never ceases to amaze me.
The Indians near Norman Island

An entrance to a cave at Norman Island

That’s Sam

A school of blue tangs. I’ve never seen anything like this before.
And that’s Chris!
Willy T’s boat bar.
They did eventually jump, but we had tied up Tangent by then.
Painkillers all around at Willy T’s
Later in the afternoon we took Tangent, the dinghy, to Willy T’s, a boat that has been made into a bar in the harbor. Willy T’s is a peppy place with a typical bar crowd enjoying Painkillers and every other type of drink imaginable. It has an upstairs area as well and from there those that are brave jump into the water below. It is a fun place for all! And, no, we didn’t jump.
When evening came we went to the calmer and more elegant restaurant on the beach of Norman Island. There we had a delicious dinner of seafood and we sat and reminisced about what a wonderful visit we had with our dear friends from way back.

Leaving Antigua early in the morning.
Lovely hills in St. Kitts
These calm conditions in open water are what we like to call “Trawler Weather”
Thanks to Debbie Gaddy, this is a picture of us entering the lagoon in St. Maarten
Some beautiful boats just inside the bridge.
Eclipse is the largest personal yacht ever built to date. It is 533 feet long!


We last saw Venus in Grenada.
Larry, Debbie, and Scott on Little Blend
Kirby and Noi keeping watch with John and me on Tangent.
Debbie, Noi, and I went to breakfast at Zee Best while the captains checked into St. Maarten.
Leaving St. Maarten. What looks like an island out there is Eclipse anchored in the Bay